Adjustable shocks

[Psi-Pop]

Has anyone had any experience with using adjustable shocks to help get the car off the line? I'm looking at a few brands but I just cant find any good stories of success. Is the softest setting anywhere near soft enough to as whats needed?

There isn't a great deal of support out there for E series strip cars. So any info or thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers

[prasac]

we use Strange, no springs, can't complain picked up half a tenth in the 60' compared to the old Pedders ones. consistently 60's 1.28-1.29, is this for the 1000hp combo or another one? we just have them set on soft, setting the front is just as important as the rear. what happens at the front affects what happens at the rear also. what are you running in the front?

[fat4D]

would you just be able to take the springs out if you have pedders coil overs and run the stiff setting on the shocks?

[Psi-Pop]

At the moment the car is sprung as I got it back in 2009. Lows and Superlows on Monroe Gt's.

this is for my car, so in the end 1000hp, but probably 700hp for awhile till I get used to it all. I have no issues in changing complete struts for racing, I have a hoist at home so suspension stuff is pretty easy.

I had planned on getting a set of well worn standard springs to make spring rates soft as possible. A set of adjustables at the rear on soft and a set of adj on front that are adjustable set to soft.

I just haven't had enough experience with them to know what to get and how to set them.

The main issue is nobody makes shocks for E series, only off the shelf items which aren't tailored to what i ideally want.

[prasac]

set the back on full soft so it squats on launch. till we got the new Koni's we jst had a set of 60/40's in the front. alot of people say you need to run 90/10's it's a crock, once you start going 8-sec passes, which with 1000hp you will be you want like a 60/40. the setting we have with the Strange on the back is full soft and the Koni adjustable front set to hard, allows for less travel. you need to limit the travel of the front.

[dieseltrain79]

It's. It just soft or hard but the rebound rates as well .

Get rid of the super low springs and go something just lower than factory . Too low springs won't allow the shocks to work in their peak range and bottom out easily effecting the weight transfer a lot .

People run 90/10 fronts to help the front bounce up easier helping transfer the weight to the rear ... But once you have big hp the front will be lifting anyway due to the torque and traction , that's why the Capri needed 60/40 to stop throwing the front up so quick , causing unwanted 2 ft plus wheel stands .

[Giant]

Also look at removing or cutting back a set of bump stoppers to allow the rear to squat far enough. Normally you will find the front left will lift the highest and push the right rear into the track.

Remove the front sway bar.

As said above close to standard height stiff springs in the front will help. You can then lower the front by the wheels / tyre rolling dia compared to the rears.

1000hp make sure the car is in alignment so it runs true down the track.

[prasac]

i'm not familiar with the chassis setups on the EL's you might want to look at some sort of chassis (sub frame) connectors etc. otherwise with 1000hp it could end up twisting like a licorice stick

[Psi-Pop]

Thanks for all the advice guys, Im going to be stepping the power up slowly so I can get the car sorted and get used to how it runs. Im a bit scared of just going all out from the get go and I want to get used to the power.

Id imagine a E series to turn into a complete pretzel lol.

[ebxr8240]

Keep a lookout with drive shaft hitting top of tunnel.. Can do catastrophic damage to gear box etc..
Drag shocks [coil over] can be adapted to Falcons..

[icer]

unwanted 2ft wheel stands???? unwanted by whom?!? id love to see it :P

[v gate]

transfer of weight not squat is whats needed. the rear shocks must open up not collapse. you want the shock to work not bottem out. if the tyres side wall is traveling up inside the wheel arch on launch then you are losing et.
and just bite the bullet and go all out its a million times cheaper for the same result